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OEM Style Kawasaki H1, H2, and KH400 Ignition Units and H2/Late H1 Regulators
With a Two Year Warranty!

New!  Kawasaki KH400 CDI Unit (see below)


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New!

KH400 CDI Stockbox
$299 ea.

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H2/1973 H1D,E,F, KH500 Super-Regulator  $159 ea.
Newly developed precision regulator allows use of original type batteries,
sealed batteries, or no battery at all!
 

Stockbox CDI Small
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H2/1973 H1D
CDI Stockboxes  $99 ea.

Stockbox Rectifier 1 Small
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H2/1973 H1D
Ignition Rectifier Stockboxes $99 ea.
Stockboxes Set Small 1
Mounting plate not included
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H2/1973 H1D
Stockbox Sets $349
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H2/1973 H1D Rebuilding Service  
We can put new parts in your original stock housings

$49 each   $175 complete set of four    
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H1 Late model (1974-1976 H1E, H1F, KH500)
CDI All-In-1 Stockboxes (A and B units combined)
$139 ea.
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H1 Late Model (1974-1976 H1E, H1F, KH500)
CDI (A unit) Stockboxes $119 ea.
Click for more informationH1 Late model (1974-1976 H1E, H1F, KH500)
Filter (B unit) Stockboxes  $89 ea.
Click for more informationH1 Late Model Rebuilding Service
We can put new parts in your original stock housings

$69 CDI Unit   $39 filter (B Unit)
$79 All-In-1 (A and B units combined in A box)

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Customers' Triples Photos
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 The Stockbox Story

I've had an H2 since the '70s, and have been plagued by failing ignition units since '79.  When I ran out of spares, I decided to try building some CDI units instead of buying more 35 year old ones.  Since I had several failed units, I took one apart, and drew a schematic.  Two parts were burned, and I couldn't read their values, but around then I found a published schematic which filled in the missing pieces and made some improvements.  I made my first CDI and rectifier units based on this schematic, and they worked great.  The bright blue sparks make it clear that the original units had degraded over the years.   For reference, I took apart a couple more old ones, and was able to recreate the schematic of the original Kawasaki units made in late 1972 and 1973, and probably beyond.

Now I needed only some nice looking enclosures that would mount on the stock plate.  I wanted to stay with four separate boxes, so that if one fails I don't have to replace the other three as well, so I designed and fabricated stainless steel housings patterned after the originals, and potted the circuits in them, using high quality epoxy made for the purpose.  The result was so positive that I thought that others might be interested, and I decided to make them available for sale.  I have complete control of the quality of the parts and construction, so I feel that I'm safe to guarantee them for two years, which should take most of the risk out of trying a set.  I've tested the Stockboxes to around 9,000 rpm on my H2, and to 14,000 rpm on my motorized alternator test bench, and they behave like the originals did when they were new, in every way.


Old capacitors, by the way, seem to be a weak spot in the original Kawasaki (Mitsubishi) CDI units.  Interestingly, I haven't found any failed main capacitors, only the smaller snubber capacitors, which fail and cause the resistor in series with them to burn up in a spectacular way.  The main ones, however, are rated 3 uF, but after all these years, many old ones I've checked measure around 2uF or even less.  This means that installing new Stockboxes is likely to result in better sparks, as well as better reliability, than even "new old stock" Kawasaki units can provide.

Here is a PDF file of the late 1972-1973 original Kawasaki H2 ignition boxes schematic:  H2 Original Kaw Ignition Schematic

The Kawasaki Triples Resource Page (http://www.kawtriple.com/mraxl/cdi.htm) credits an improved CDI design to
an article by Jan Macintosh printed in a Kawasaki Triples Club newsletter
.  The design addresses the original circuit's tendency of C1 and R1 to fail.  Here is a PDF file of the schematic of the improved set of CDI boxes, with parts lists:  H2 Improved Ignition Schematic   Early Lakeland Stockboxes used this circuit, and work very well.  I've made a few small improvements as a result of many hours of testing, so that our new units behave as much like the original units as possible, and also to improve reliability even more.  Our H1 combination unit is now even immune to the infamous failure from accidentally connecting 12V to the white signal generator wire!

-Jim Hobbs, Lakeland Services Co.
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